PREPARE: Heat the oven to 200°C / 400°F / Gas mark 6. Melt the butter with the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat.

SAUTÉ THE VEGETABLES: Add the carrots, celery and red onion to the pan and cook gently for 5-10 minutes until softened. Add the mushrooms, bacon or prosciutto, tomato paste and garlic to the pan and cook a further 2-3 minutes.

BROWN THE BEEF: Add the beef and stock powder to the pan and use a wooden spoon or spatula to break it up. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally for 5-10 minutes until the beef has begun to brown.

ADD THE LIQUIDS: Pour the milk and red wine into the pan. Use a pair of clean scissors to chop the tomatoes in the can and add them to the pan, stirring well to combine.

ADD THE SEASONINGS: Stir the oregano, sugar, bay leaf and a few grinds of black pepper into the beef mixture, then simmer for 20 minutes until thick and glossy. Stir occasionally to prevent the beef from catching on the bottom of the pan. Add extra salt to taste, then set aside.

MAKE THE BÉCHAMEL: When the beef sauce has nearly finished cooking, prepare the béchamel sauce. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan, stir in the flour and allow to cook for 3-5 minutes, stirring constantly.

ADD THE MILK: Pour the milk into the saucepan, whisking constantly. Bring to a simmer until the sauce bubbles and thickens, then remove from the heat. Stir in the cheeses, a sprinkle of freshly ground nutmeg, sea salt and some black pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary.

ROLL THE CANNELLONI: Spread two or three large spoonfuls of the meat mixture over the bottom of a 20x30cm (8x12 in.) baking dish. If using large lasagne sheets, divide them in half. Spread each lasagne sheet with 1 tablespoon of bechamel sauce, add approx. 2 tablespoons of the meat mixture at one end, and then roll into a tube. Place in the prepared baking dish with the seam side down. Repeat until all pasta sheets have been used.

ASSEMBLE AND BAKE: Loosen the meat sauce with a little stock, wine or water and spread it evenly over the top of the pasta. Thin the remaining cheese sauce with a splash of milk and spread evenly over the top of the sauce. Transfer to the preheated oven and bake for 30-40 minutes until golden brown.