Peel the asparagus, keeping the peels to the side, then trim off any woody ends. Fresh and good quality asparagus should need very little trimmed off so start with half a centimetre and trim more as necessary.

Place the asparagus the peels in a wide, flat saucepan, and cover with water so it is completely submerged. Add the lemon, sugar and salt to the water, then cover, and bring to the boil. As soon as the water is boiling, turn the heat down to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes or until the asparagus is completely tender when pricked with a fork.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small saucepan, skimming off any milk solids that rise to the top with a spoon. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Place the egg yolks and white wine in a heatproof bowl and set over a pot of simmering water. Whisk well until thick and creamy, then remove from the heat.

Pour the butter into the egg mixture, at first drop by drop, then in a thin stream, whisking well all the time. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice, then set the bowl back over the pot of hot water (with the heat turned off) to keep warm.

Serve the asparagus with hollandaise on the side and some ham and parsley on the side.